用一针一线勾勒“天衣无缝”

发布日期:2016-08-08 文章来源:静安报

提起“鸿翔”这块金字招牌,老上海通常都会说:“‘鸿翔’的女装,穿上去就是好看。”尽管已经走过近百年,推、归、拔,镶、嵌、滚、切、绣、包等“鸿翔女装制作技艺”在三代鸿翔人的手中被完整地传承至今。

与剪刀、针线相伴35年,“鸿翔女装制作技艺”传承人吴志强用双手,为每一位顾客制作穿着舒适、看着挺括、久穿不走样的女装,让属于鸿翔的传奇在她们身上不断延续。

嘉园

30多道工艺完成一件女装

走进鸿翔服饰制衣间,年逾半百的吴志强正站在那里裁剪布料。“定制一件‘鸿翔’女装一般要比其他品牌服装多用20%的布料,因为要保证面料丝缕垂直,镶缝衔接处对接恰当。所有的服装都足工足量,包括真丝裙的里料都是真丝的。”吴志强说道。

吴志强是“鸿翔裁缝铺”创始人金鸿翔的徒孙。从刚开始,戴上顶针箍,手拿缝衣针,学着衲布,根本坐不住到爱上裁缝手艺,吴志强把一生都交给了制衣这一行,不仅原汁原味地继承了“鸿翔”近百年所形成的手工制衣技艺,还掌握了特殊体形的裁剪、试样、矫正等技术。吴志强告诉记者,鸿翔女装采用立体裁剪,讲究精准合体,做成的衣服不裂不吊,随身服帖,体现女性形体的曲线美。“做成一件鸿翔女装必须要经过设计、选料、裁剪、定实样、试身、撇样、制作等30多道纯手工制作工艺。推、归、拔恰到好处,天衣无缝是我们的标准。”吴志强骄傲地说,“不管是大衣、职业女装,还是旗袍、裙装,鸿翔做出来的东西都可以说是经典。”

除了完全手工制作外,“鸿翔”各种款式的女装各自有着严苛的制作要求和不同的工艺。仅职业女装一个品类,就会根据不同季节,准备百余种进口面料。工艺上讲究驳线平直,袖子汕头吃势均匀圆顺,领子驳头活相,省位正确恰到好处,袋盖及下摆,方、圆得当有致,绝无凹凸不齐等。

量体裁衣 追求完美品质

吴志强介绍说,鸿翔品牌之所以能够始终挺立在瞬息万变的服饰潮流中,全凭设计师和裁缝师傅的精湛手艺和对完美品质的追求。如今的“鸿翔”依旧保持着“量体裁衣、度身定做”的传统特色。“我们做的西装、大衣、礼服、旗袍、连衣裙,风格不一定很花俏,衣服上的一针一线都绝对是师傅手工缝制的。”

记者了解到,鸿翔的服装定制以顾客体验服务为主,从下单开始,一件定制衣服必须要经过量体、选料、制版打样、试身、修改、制作、通知取货等七道流程。“我们量体需要在26个部位测量。最后制衣时,师傅会根据顾客试身后的修改意见,把纯手工扎的试身衣服拆开,通过精准的撇样、推、归、拔等工艺进行补准制作。”对于一件普通女装的“诞生”经历,吴志强如数家珍。

吴志强说,自己曾经接待过一位顾客。“一开始,我们根据她的尺寸做了一件外套,顾客很满意。”就在这位顾客准备取货时,吴志强突然发现,衣服虽然很合身,却把她背有些驼的缺点给暴露了出来。于是,吴志强主动提出对衣服再次进行微调。“她的左侧后背有些驼,我就在右侧衣服里面铺上腈纶棉,把后背的左右两侧借平。尽管穿上去,人看着不是很苗条,却把身材上的缺陷给遮住了。”吴志强说,从此以后,这名顾客每次要做衣服,都会找上“鸿翔”的门。

学手艺要肯吃“萝卜干饭”

作为“鸿翔女装制作技艺”的传承人,吴志强对这门老手艺的未来很是担忧。“现在,上海的小孩不愿意学缝纫,家长也不愿意让小孩做这个行当。我自己的几个徒弟都已经40岁左右。这门技艺再不传承下去就会消失了。”吴志强表示,学裁缝很苦,都是一针一线的活,一做就要站好几个小时,有时候还要跟着不同特长的老师学习各种技艺。基本学会做大衣、西服,需要两三年,真正要学好鸿翔的传统技艺,最起码要吃上十多年的“萝卜干饭”。

这些年,鸿翔陆陆续续走进来不下10位愿意入行的“新人”,最终不是因为工资低、就是不愿意吃苦,都先后离开了。“真正能沉下心来做一名裁缝师傅的小孩真不多。现在学裁缝的学生像走马灯一样。”吴志强感慨道。“我真的很希望,能够有年轻人把这门手艺原原本本传承下去。让以后的人还能穿上鸿翔的衣服,而不是只在各种资料和影像里看到它们。”

Post Author: admin

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